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Faultcode P1485 R9M 1,6dCi engine

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JensG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote JensG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Faultcode P1485 R9M 1,6dCi engine
    Posted: 15 Jun 2015 at 10:05am
Hey !
If you get a falut code on a QQ 1,6 dCi R9M, it is normally the exhaustdammer (valve) sitting just down under the gear selection handle outside on the Exhaust tube, just after the Particle filter and CAT.
This valve wery often gets stuck and needs to be loosen and greased.
I uses some ceramic lube, this works perfect.
Demount the valve, loosening the 2 screws holding it on the exhaust tube, lube the valve and massage the valve until it turns smootly.Wink
Sorry but I dont have any pics yet.Cry

Jens
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodstock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2016 at 7:15pm
hello i have these two codes and on the whole net could only find your post referencing them .
(Thanks yo your post )  Knowing what it probably was i book my car in to Nissan and the code read and came back with exactly what you say.
They inform me that  i need a new front tube assembly at a cost of 650. I ask the mechanic to work it loose with ceramic grease that i had taken with me.
However he informed me that it was seized on the inside so lubricating would not help, he took me to the car and showed me him trying to turn the mechanism that turns to open and  close the release with a  flat headed screw driver and it was almost solid.
 Now am i understanding you correct in thinking you worked the actual mechanism that turns to open and close the valve, or did you actually work the grease into the open /close valve itself by going actually  inside the front assembly tube?
Many thanks in advance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JensG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2016 at 7:35am
Hi Woodstock!

Just shortly!
I have now driven 90.000 km since the first time mine valve got stock, and I fixed it first time, with the ceramic lubricant and WD40 (first I use WD40, to loosen it) then when it turns smoothly and nice, after some massage and working, I give it some thin ceramic spray grease. and it runs perfectly.
I do this every time I make a oil change and service, and it just keeps running.
the Nissan dealer in Aalborg Denmark, has got the trick from me, and is also using it on customers vehicles, that isn´t under the 100.000 km varrenty, and they also appriciate this fix, i made.
My QQ have now been running 100.000 km since first stie the valve got stock, and it wont happen again.
No matter what your dealer tells you, it helps, but ofcause, if you deside to DIY and fix this issue, the dealer wont have thisdeal, and wont have your money.
I will see if I still are able to find the pictures, that describes the way I fixed this, but you have to drill 3-4 pcs. 1,5-2mm holes on each side in the bussrings veldes to the tube, in which the valveshaft turns.
you anr welcome to send me a PM on jensg#nordfiber.dk

Regards Jens
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodstock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2016 at 9:31pm
Hello, thank you for your message. Are you are talking about taking the hex nuts off the cover and putting ceramic grease on the mechanism that turns to open and close the  round valve inside the assy  front tube? My actual valve  inside the ass front tube is sized, the mechanism will not open/close it even if i try and use a screwdriver to force it.
Did you actually dismount the assy front tube from the car and work from inside the exhaust or just take the hex nuts off  the mechanism cover and grease the mechanism that opens and closes the valve rather than the round valve itself?
Many thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodstock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2016 at 3:03pm
Hello, scrap the above i know what you are meaning now. Right after a long time i have got my valve to move but only when i use a flat headed screwdriver, how smoothly should it rotate to to open and close?
Should you be able to turn it with your fingers?
http://i.imgur.com/2uU0mS8.jpg


http://imgur.com/2uU0mS8
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sundowndk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 3:30pm
I've had the p1485 on and off for a some months now. I then read this thread and I checked the valve mentioned. It was stuck, but with a little help for WD40 and some heat resistant grease I got it working smoothly again.

But now i receive an p1484 error instead, which is even more annoying since it disables the cruisecontrol every 10th sec. According to various internet searches p1484 translates to "Open Power To Ground VCRM" or "Variable Load Control Module Pin 1 Open" .. I have no idea what this means, but I presume it has something to do with the electrical part of the before mentioned valve.

I did nothing more than remove the electrical part and apply the WD40 and grease to the valve assembly on the exhaust pipe, and reassembled it again.

I've afterwards made sure the connector is connected correctly and cleaned it with some contact spray to be absolutely sure. p1484 error comes on right after ignition, where p1485 usually comes after a couple starts and sometimes completely goes away, just to come back again.

I have not previously encountered p1484 so I presume it must be related to me working on the valve. Could the electrical part have somehow become damaged?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodstock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 8:31pm
Hello Sundowndk, please take a look at my picture  http://i.imgur.com/2uU0mS8.jpg   did you remove the two-bolts before you loosened your valve?
i have taken the bolts off and can now get it to turn, but it is still very hard to move.
Could you move your valve very easily once greased with your fingers ? I have to use a flat head screwdriver to move it.
The code you have is still related to the same assy front tube valve, i had the code and it went once i replaced the tube for a new one.
The tube i talk about in this thread is the one i took off.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sundowndk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 9:31pm
Hey Woodstock.

Yes I removed the bolts and completely removed part that moves the valve. I could move the little leaver with my fingers easy, I presume its the valve motor thats inside the metal/plastic housing.

The other part that is attached to the tube, the one with the spring is the one that was stuck, I could barely move it using a screwdriver. But after I greased it and gave it a good massage it moved freely again. It sprang back into position when I moved it, I presume its supposed to do.

I then put the valve motor back on with the two bolts. When I turned the ignition I got the p1484 code.

I also inspected the valve with the engine running and I could see no movement of any kind, then again I have no idea when the valve is supposed move.

Did you replace the assy front tube yourself? My local Nissan dealership said it would cost me around £600 to fix the problem, they did not say which parts but I presume its the tube along with probably the EGR valve, even though they did say no when I asked if the problem was the EGR.

I have previously owned a Ford CMAX and had the EGR replaced twice but for fare less than £600.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodstock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 8:27pm
hello, many thanks for the message.
The valve actually closes  to trap the hot gas in order for the dpf to heat up and be able to clean.
I am guessing that error code means that some gas is still escaping when valve is closed giving way to low pressure as mentioned in teh fault code.
I took my two screws off  of today, and the thought did occur to me that when putting the top bit back on would i have to put the little leaver in the exact same position as i took it off?
What i mean is, if i put the leaver back after i moved it would /could open become closed and vice versa if i did not put it make in the exact same position? .

I have taken this top bit off with the leaver on it  and like you the bit with the spring on is stiff as hell, how did you massage anything into it , all i see is a spring, did you take the spring off?

many thanks

Skiff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sundowndk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2016 at 5:56am
It took a while for the valve mechanism to move freely again and I'm not sure that it will stay that way unless I drill the holes that JensG mentioned and get lubrication inside the valve itself. But I'm not entirely sure where to drill them.

My problem at the moment is that I cant see if my fixed worked since I now along side the p1485 error code also get the p1484 code which I think is related to the VCRM (variable control relay module) the one with the little leaver.

What I can tell from various google searches is that the "Open Power To Ground" description that relates to p1484 is caused by the module not getting any power. I did have the same thought as you, if the leaver should be in the same position going on as going off. I don't think that open could become closed, since the spring should make the valve go back to open position. My valve springs back to what I think is open position when I move it with my fingers.

I will give it another go today and see if I can get better results, but if the VCRM is damaged in some way I might be out of luck. I haven't been able to find that part anywhere. BTW part no. is: Pierburg 5.08855.03 and is also used on various Renault models, and I presume its part of the font tube assy. Maybe it would be easier to find a used part at a scrap yard somewhere and replace tube and relay, but again I have no idea how hard it is to get the tube off.

Thx for the info about what the valve actually does, I had my suspicions that it had something to do with the DPF. I've had this problem on and off for at least 4 months and now that it has become permanent I presume that the DPF is not being regenerated at all which in turn will lead to the DPF failure and I would have to take the car to Nissan and have them clean it. (more money)

I will let you know what I find today.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodstock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2016 at 12:18pm
Sundowndk  Make sure you manually regenerate your dpf my driving for two mins on the motorway in say 3rd gear at about 70-75mph ( the revs have to be in the red) this will force a dpf clean and keep your dpf healthy.

cheers
Skiff


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodstock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2016 at 12:25pm
Mine was stuck open , and like yours the engine light was on and off and then became permanent.

The really annoying thing for me was that i only picked up the codes for this issue when the engine light came on for a  faulty ignition plug.

The problem of this valve sticking does not illuminate the engine light until it's bad, but it generates a code that is stored in the car that can be read when it just starts to get a little sticky.
Only when it gets near stuck does it actually illuminate the warning light.
 I was one month out of warranty and the problem was there probably 6 months before i found it.
From now on, i will code read my cars just before warranty ends!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sundowndk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2016 at 12:53pm
Hey woodstock

I did not know that you could force the DPF into regen. I have never seen the regen symbole come on, probably because i daily drive around 200km on the motorway. Do you know if regen will happen even when there is a engine warning light? And what about the faulty valve, does it still regen even if the valve does not close?

I had the exact same experience with the engine light, it would come on and the next day gone, even sometimes between starts within hours.

Today I had another look at the valve, it still moves with ease, but I still get the p1484 fault code. I then wanted to find out if it really was the electrical module that produced the error, so I disconnected and the error went away but 2 other came up instead (p1481 and p1490), one of them being that the module was m.i.a. So from that I can conclude that the p1484 error is related to the electrical module.

I then talked to a local mechanic about the problem and he told me that the "Open Power To Ground" basically means that there is a short somewhere. I checked the wiring for the connector and could not see any damage to it, so the problem must be inside the module.

After I came to the conclusion that the module must be faulty I called around to source a replacement, either from a salvage yard or new. That lead me to a guy at a salvage yard who told me he had several customers wanting to buy this module, but for the most part the module is already dead after just a couple of months sitting idle in th yard. Probably the same thing that happened to the module I have, its been stuck in the same position for a along time and when I pulled it out, something must have shorted inside of it.

Anyways, that lead me to call around trying to find a new part instead and after awhile I managed to find it. The part no. I gave in a previous post is correct and the module is used in various other car brands (Renault, Mercedes). The guy at the shop told me that he could have it by the end of the week for a cost of around $230.

I might try and open the old electrical module and have look if its possible to repair it in some way. I will let you know how things work out. And if it helps with the p1485 error that started all this to begin with.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodstock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2016 at 3:43pm
There is no symbol when the car does this, the car usually re-gens or to be more precise self cleans  the dpf itself ,if  car is used for normal driving.
 Reading that you do those miles everyday you don't need to worry or do the instructions i gave in the above post about your DPF..

If for example the car was used for many short journeys  and never a long run the the  set parameters of temp/revs are never met for a dpf self clean, so that is what the valve is for, its a back up plan to keep the dpf clean. Clever hey! well not for us! ;(
It closes the exhaust emissions to heat the system up to clean the dpf.

Like you i do mainly motorways miles and i am guessing that our valves were very rarely used as we do long miles on open roads, thus allowing the car to self clean the dpf, this is probably why we both have stuck valves- through lack of use.
Either that or both our modules being faulty and sticking open.

When i took my module off there appeared to be rust on both the contact on the top of the valve and the module connection itself, did you check yours? The rust maybe stopping a true connection and generating that code
I will take some pics for you of inside the modules, it is like a clockwork mechanism and also pics of the inside the front  assy tube looking at the valve.
regards
Skiff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sundowndk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2016 at 9:14pm
Hey

An update on my issue.

I took the car to a mechanic and let him know what I've found out by messing with the valve. He cut the exhaust tube to get the valve out (even tho it seamed to me to be moving correctly, he told me it did not), the tube was welded back together after the valve was fixed and the p1485 and p1484 error went away.

Its been 4 days since the fix and still good. So I guess the p1484 does not mean that the VCRM is faulty, just that it cant move the valve into the correct position.

Hope this helps others with the same problem.. and saves them a bit of money as well.

So I can confirm that the p1485 error code is related to the valve inside the exhaust, like the original post says. Nissan wanted to replace the entire front tube, along with the VCRM. The local mechanic just cut the valve out of the tube and got it cleaned up, saved my a great deal of money :-)



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nissan23 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2016 at 6:39pm
Hi, Did you sort your P485 fault? I have the same. Messed around... and pluged a secondhand one along the side and removed cleaning EGR valve.The EGR valve was in good condition
I'm starting to think it's wiring or ECU to sensitive or needs an update. Had this problem for 9 months. The warning light does the same only comes on start up.....not every start up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nissan23 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2016 at 6:59pm
Originally posted by Nissan23 Nissan23 wrote:

Hi, Did you sort your P1485 fault? I have the same. Messed around... and pluged a secondhand one along the side and removed cleaning EGR valve.The EGR valve was in good condition
I'm starting to think it's wiring or ECU to sensitive or needs an update. Had this problem for 9 months. The warning light does the same only comes on start up.....not every start up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sundowndk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2016 at 6:30am
Yes I did solve the problem.

First I removed the EGR valve and cleaned it, that did not help (the engine did get more responsive after the clean, so I guess it was needed).

Eventually I had a friend of mine cut out the piece of exhaust tube that holds the small valve and got the it moving correctly again. After that he welded the piece back onto the exhaust and the p1485 error went away.

I did first try and lubricate the valve from the outside, by removing the VCRM module. To me it seamed to move as it should but when I re-attached the module to the value, I got p1484 instead of p1485, and that in turn disabled the cruise control.

Initially I thought the VCRM had become damaged in some way, so I called around to source a replacement. I was told by several scrapyards that they would not recommend using a second hand part, since the modules have a tenancy to corrode inside after sitting idle for awhile. I finally tracked down a new part from a parts supplier, and it was cheaper then expected.

I never got around to replacing the VCRM since the fixe with cutting out the valve and fixing it from the inside worked.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nissan23 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2016 at 1:36pm
Thanks I will look in that, I've even swap the module around to save on time. I will check the valve movement...to see if it fully opens when on the car.... as the module is the DC motor feed and potentiometer for the value position. This must be a design fault if you had to cut part of the exhaust out...Could you delete my first post as I put p485 instead of p1485.

Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nissan23 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2016 at 3:13pm
Now I've joined the P1484 code club!! Since freeing up the valve P1485 has gone away. Will try opening up exhaust to improve the movement of the valve. It's frustrating this fault.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JensG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 11:14am
Hi
Sorry for the late answer, yes you should be able to move it with your fingers only
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote yenersonmez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2016 at 2:04pm
this method can solve our problems?

http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-reset-ecu-clear-dtc-codes-t445684.html

METHOD ONE (Most difficult procedure):"]______________________________________________

1. Confirm that  http://www.amazon.com/gp/search?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=automotive&keywords=accelerator%2Bpedal&Code=ur2 - accelerator pedal is fully released, turn  http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.?_from=R40&_nkw=ignition+switch&_sacat=6000 - ignition switch “ON” (without starting vehicle) and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2-a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2-b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the  http://www.amazon.com/gp/search?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=automotive&keywords=accelerator%2Bpedal&Code=ur2 - accelerator pedal and keep it for approximately 10 seconds until SERVICE ENGINE SOON starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while SERVICE ENGINE SOON is still blinking).

5. Wait about 10 seconds.

6. Fully depress the  http://www.amazon.com/gp/search?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=automotive&keywords=accelerator%2Bpedal&Code=ur2 - accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the vehicle. The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light should be gone.

If the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

______________________________________________

METHOD TWO (Medium difficulty):"]______________________________________________

1. Turn ignition "ON" (without starting vehicle), count to 3 seconds.

2. Depress/Release  http://www.amazon.com/gp/search?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=automotive&keywords=accelerator%2Bpedal&Code=ur2 - accelerator pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 seconds (not 7!) and fully depress accelerator pedal.

4. Count to 12 seconds (SERVICE ENGINE SOON should be blinking), release accelerator pedal.

5. Count to 10 seconds, depress accelerator pedal.

6. Count to 10 seconds, release accelerator pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JensG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2016 at 2:08pm
How would this solve a exhaust valve that is stock Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JensG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2016 at 2:11pm
As soon the valve are free and mooving in it´s fully working area, the engine faliure lamp turns off, but of cause the P1485 error code is saved in the log file.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prakta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2017 at 4:21pm
Hi,

I have the same fault code P1485 which has recently turned up on my 1.6 dci R9M engine Dead.
Do any of you, maybe JensG, have a picture of where the valve is located?

Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JensG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2017 at 4:29pm
It's located right under the gear selecter
Under the midconsole underneath the vehicle
Rgds Jens
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prakta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2017 at 7:15pm
Ok, thanks for your fast response JensG!
But as I get it you need to drill holes in the exhaust system (pipe) in order to access the mechanism inside the exhaust system.
Maybe I should take a peek at it under the vehicle before asking more questions
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prakta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2017 at 11:11am
Alright have recently crawled under the car to find the suspected valve. Took a picture of it which I would like to share.
JensG where did you drill and how did you make it air tight afterwards so it doesn't leak exhausts?
Have anyone been successful to fix this without drilling/cutting it up I.e from the outside only? That seems unlikely though...
https://imgur.com/gallery/1HFHz
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prakta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2017 at 11:12pm
Update:

Now I have gone through the steps as mentioned earlier on my car i.e

- Removed the EGR-valve motor from the exhaust by loosening the two
  hex nut screws and unplugged it from the electrical connector. The upper
  screw was somewhat hard to get loose but with some patience it came off.

- The valve inside the exhaust was barely moving, almost stuck. Could only
  move the lever with a tool using some force.

- Oiled up the mechanism and worked with it until it moved smoothly so I could
  move the lever with my fingers. This took some time. Put on some ceramic grease.

- Mounted back the EGR-valve motor, tightened it with the two screws and connected
   the electrical connector.

Afterwards I checked it with my OBD-analyzer. No pending faults. After clearing the
logged faults my malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) or check engine light only lights up
and comes off directly after the engine is started.

I was lucky to be able to fix this without any drilling or cutting up the exhaust pipe.
The car has 100.000 km on it and is five years old.

Tomorrow I will happily cancel my scheduled time at the Nissan garage.

I really hope it stays like this!

Cheers
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malebee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2017 at 9:03am
Thaks a lot Prakta !
It wors for me. I just solve this problem on my Qq following your tips.
I'm happy to see how light of malfunction indicator lamp came off again, after engine is started.
Also checked on OBD analizer. No faults!
My Qq - 230 000 km and five years old.

Many greetings everybody !


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prakta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 11:27pm
Hi,

Sorry for a long post, but the end result might help you out!

Update regarding the problem with the P1485 error code I had almost a year ago in May las year.
The problem came back in a few months and I was able to get rid of it with the same procedure as described earlier.

Two weeks ago the same P1485 turned up once again, a bit tiresome to see but since I now know how to fix it I wasn't too worried. However, after crawling under the car, removing the EGR-valve motor. Working with the EGR-valve on the exhaust tube until it moved fairly smooth and reasssemble everything. After this guess what I got the dreaded P1484 as mentioned in this thread here and there. The P1485 was gone but I was now member in the unwanted P1484-club. The "stop/start system fault"-message comes on for a few seconds and comes back like every 20-30 seconds or so. The cruise control is disabled each time this appears.

So I was prepared to give my Nissan garage a call and set up an appointment with the mechanic to have the parts replaced at a considerable high cost. However, today I decided to attempt to fix it for the last time. After doing all steps and making sure that the valve moved even more smoothly than last time once again I still found that I didn't get rid of the P1484. Before lowering the car down I decided to check whether the valve could be moved with all parts assembled.  I could move it clockwise and back to the starting position but it could not be moved counter-clockwise at all it was completely impossible to move it at all in that direction (i.e. moving the valve lever upwards from the ground seen=counter-clockwise). This was the problem. So after disassembling the EGR-valve motor and try to find what was hindering the movement I was able to pinpoint the problem. The end of the spring was stopped by the EGR-valve motor so it could not be moved counter-clockwise. Pay attention to how the spring that makes the valve-lever bounce back is assembled back and you will be fine.

This was how I did, it isn't so easy to describe but I will try to give it a try.

1) Before mounting the EGR-valve moter back move the valve-lever counter-clockwise so you can see the end of the spring. I call the start of the spring the point where the valve lever sits and the end of the spring is the other

2) Put back the EGR-valve motor back and mount it only with the upper screw. Make sure that the end side of the spring is resting on the EGR-valve motor's upper part.

3) Turn the valve-lever clock-wise (up towards the car seen from the ground) so it can be lined up with the EGR-valve motor's slit when folding the EGR-valve motor in and mount the lower screw.
Connect the electrical connector back.

4) Note that the valve-lever can now be moved  in a wider range/angle.

After this I tried to see the result and YES the "stop/start system fault"-message was gone. After connecting my OBD-analyser I had not the P1484 as a pending fault anymore!

So, for me the P1484-problem was actually due to the fact that I assembled the EGR-valve motor in a bad way so the movement of the valve was hindered.

I hope this will help someone in the future/now!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thrall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2018 at 1:28am
Thank you for this information; just hoping I never need to use it... ;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prakta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2018 at 2:33pm
Sorry my posting contained one error (see in red below). Please read this instead:

Update regarding the problem with the P1485 error code I had almost a year ago in May las year.
The problem came back in a few months and I was able to get rid of it with the same procedure as described earlier.

Two weeks ago the same P1485 turned up once again, a bit tiresome to see but since I knew how to fix it I wasn't too worried. However, after crawling under the car, removing the EGR-valve motor and
working with the EGR-valve on the exhaust tube until it moved fairly smooth and reasssemble 
everything. After this I got the P1484-code as mentioned in this thread here and there. The P1485 
was gone but I got the P1484 instead. The "stop/start system fault"-message came on for a few
seconds and came back every 20-30 seconds or so. The cruise control was disabled each time
this appeared.

So I was prepared to give my Nissan garage a call and set up an appointment with the mechanic to
have the parts replaced. However, today I decided to attempt to fix it again. After doing all steps and making sure that the valve moved even more smoothly than last time once again I still found that I still had the P1484. Before lowering the car down I decided to check whether the valve could be 
moved with all parts assembled.  I could move it clockwise and back to the starting position but it could not be moved counter-clockwise at all,  it was completely impossible to move it at all in that direction (i.e. moving the valve lever downwards from the ground seen=counter-clockwise). This was the problem! So after removing the EGR-valve motor and try to find what was hindering the movement I was able to pinpoint the problem at last. The end of the spring was stopped by the EGR-valve motor
part because of how I had put the parts back,  so it could not be moved counter-clockwise. I paid
close attention to how the spring with surrounding parts was designed and how they moved.

This was how I did, it isn't so easy to describe but I will give it a try.
1) Before mounting the EGR-valve motor back move the valve-lever counter-clockwise (downwards)
so you can see the end of the spring. I call the start of the spring the point where the valve lever is
and the end of the spring is the other end of the spring.Smile

2) Put back the EGR-valve motor back and mount it only with the upper screw. Make sure that the 
end side of the spring is resting on the EGR-valve motor's upper part. It should NOT be "behind" the
EGR-valve motor as seen from ground and being in front of the EGR-valve and if laying under the car.

3) Turn the valve-lever clock-wise (upwards the car seen from the ground) so it can be lined up 
with the EGR-valve motor's slit when folding the EGR-valve motor in and mount the lower screw.
Connect the electrical connector back.

4) Note that the valve-lever can now be moved  in a wider range/angle. The starting position is also
different and will be more counter-clockwise (downwards).

After this I tried to see the result and YES the "stop/start system fault"-message was gone. After
connecting my OBD-analyser I had not the P1484 as a pending fault anymore!

So, for me the P1484-problem was actually due to the fact that I assembled the EGR-valve motor 
erroneously so the movement of the valve was hindered. 

I hope this will help someone in the future/now!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tomma Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2018 at 7:47pm
I have the R9M engine in a Renault Megane.
I was glad to find the above info on P1484/p1485 so thanks to all who have posted.

Having discovered that this motorised valve on my car (midpoint in the exhaust system) was seized I tried everything suggested above free it off. I tried on 3 separate occasions - including drilling and spraying all kinds of solvents and lubes.
I managed to get it to move but with considerably more force that it should have needed.
I drove around for 3 months with warnings going on and off on my dash but I eventually decided to bite the bullet.
For those thinking of tackling this job themselves I would say go for it.

The part I bought was 147253272R. I managed to knock my local Renault dealer down to £140.
You'll notice that the flap on a new one moves effortlessly, and returns on its spring.

All you need to do is unplug the cable to the motor then cut out the section of the exhaust that includes the valve - at least the same length of the part above (it's about 450mm long). I used and angle grinder.
Join everything together using 2 exhaust sleeves/connectors. The sleeve size I needed was 51mm ID (inside diameter). They're about £10 each.
Plug it in and you're done. Although you might have to erase fault codes.

I was curious to find out if I could free the seized valve with me now having better access to it including the insides, but I couldn't. I was actually amazed how clean it was inside. There wasn't a trace of carbon or any kind of deposits, it was shiny clean. No idea how it seized.

So for me, replacing the valve was the right thing - at a total cost of £160.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tomma Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2018 at 10:18pm
I had faults P1484/p1485 on a 1.6dci Renault Megane.

I read posts on a Nissan Qashqai forum- they also use the the R9M engine.

To cut long story short the problem turned out to be with the motorised throttle valve in the exhaust. It's under the car roughly at the midpoint. It was seized.

I had 3 attempts at freeing it off and was driving around with the light on for 3 months before deciding to replace it.
I did manage to get the valve to move but it was very stiff.

For those considering tackling this job themselves I would say go for it.

The part I bought was 147253272R. I managed to knock the price down at my local Renault to £140.
You'll notice that the flap on a new one moves effortlessly, and returns on its spring.

All you need to do is unplug the cable to the motor then cut out the section of the exhaust that includes the valve - at least the same length of the part above (it's about 450mm long). I used an angle grinder.
Join everything together using 2 exhaust sleeves/connectors. The sleeve size I needed was 51mm ID (inside diameter). They're about £10 each.
Plug it in and you're done. Although you might have to erase fault codes.

Later, I was curious to find out if I could free the seized valve with me now having better access to it including the insides, but I couldn't. I was amazed how clean it was inside. There wasn't a trace of carbon or any kind of deposits, it was shiny clean. Still no idea how it seized.

So for me, replacing the valve was the right choice - at a total cost of £160.

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